Krishna, what led to the establishment of Pangaia? And what have you changed about the company since you became CEO in 2022?
K.N.: Pangaia started out in 2019 as a small team of scientists and investors who were excited about the next generation of material science innovations that were popping up around the world. Believing that, with a bit of support, large-scale fashion brands would have an incentive to adopt more environmentally friendly materials for their products, our team put together a major showcase in Paris. We created hoodies, track bands, sweatshirts, and t-shirts made with different innovative and sustainable materials. We repurpose used natural resources, such as waste banana and pineapple we call “food fiber” or recycled cashmere, to fabricate t-shirts and sweaters. We often call Pangaia a kind of “accidental brand creation.” Our brand name, when broken down, has roots that mean “all-inclusive” (“pan”) and “mother earth” (“Gaia”) — the idea of a return to Pangea, the ancient supercontinent from which the Earth began.
Our brand immediately connected with consumers and went global as one of the fastest scaling independent consumer brands in history. We thought that our success would encourage other brands to transition to greener modes of production. Yet the fashion industry remains responsible for 10% of global emissions, and its products are essentially fed by petroleum, plastics, and animals.
As for my role, I would say that I have strengthened Pangaia’s focus on carrying out lab launches that have led the company to release more (fourteen in total) next generation innovations than the top ten fashion apparel companies combined. We have also been working on improving technology transfer (of innovations like FLWRDWN) to fashion brands and working on special projects with different industries to develop new designs out of various kinds of waste product.
Amanda, as Chief Innovation Officer, what would you cite as concrete examples of the kind of innovation Pangaia is carrying out in the fashion industry, both in terms of technology and consumer engagement?
A.P.: Our methodology involves taking places where there is an abundance in nature and using the most cutting-edge technology to augment functionality and bring out what we need from any existing material product.
As an illustration, today what is seen as the “sustainable alternative” to animal down, the material used in the production of comfort jackets and comforters, is derived from synthetic materials such as polyester that are generated from fossil fuels. Our patented material, FLWRDWN, avoids the use of animals or plastics and instead relies on a combination of waste produced by wildflowers and aerogel, which improve our products’ thermal properties and structural integrity.
Durability is a central concern when it comes to designing sustainable clothing material. Should a change of mindset in that regard be driven rather by producers or consumers? How might higher prices of sustainable materials inform the consumer’s mindset?
K.N.: Producers and consumers alike have responsibility for the clothing’s life span, which is itself one of our principal considerations when preparing our material. Moreover, I would say that we are always looking for ways to make our products more affordable, while also remaining committed to using plant based and waste materials for our designs and keeping fair wages for workers.
A.P.: The difference between using non-sustainable and recycled materials for clothing is that the cost of water, land usage, and carbon are not factored into the production process of the former. Yet as we get better at producing and scaling these materials in the market, the price of our clothing will become increasingly affordable, especially when compared to that of the top luxury fashion brands. The big question is: why have top fashion brands not switched to more sustainable materials if they are not prohibitive? I believe that the answer is not the elevated cost of the materials themselves or the unwillingness of customers to pay for them, but simply inertia.
What global presence has Pangaia garnered since its inception? And why is the company moving to Switzerland?
K.N.: We have partnerships with over 20 research institutions across the world that help us move our technology out of the lab and into commercialization. Our decision to move to Switzerland represents a return to Pangaia’s roots, the place where the company was founded, as it continues to have a strong base in London where most of our employees live. And our consumer base itself extends across 142 countries with a strong market presence in the United Kingdom, United States Europe and the Middle East.
Could you elaborate on some of Pangaia’s latest projects, including the stores that have opened in Dubai International Airport and Paris?
K.N.: The company was founded as a digital platform initially, and today there is a significant desire from consumers to connect with the brand through physical locations. Opening a store in Dubai was unconventional, but we had a great amount of success with customers coming in to buy full head-to-toe track suit “looks” to travel in. We also have concessions in Galeries Lafayette in Paris, London, and across Europe, as well as retail department store partners in Australia, Canada, India, and South Korea. And next year we will open our first own flagships in London.
What message would you both like to share to those who will attend the COP28 in Dubai?
K.N.: For four days in a row this July the planet reached the hottest days ever reported. What stronger signal do we need to realize the urgency of addressing climate change in scale? Again, fashion is the third-most polluting industry, and the technology exists today, in a way that is attainable for most brands, to enact dramatic change. Pangaia is not a brand; it is a technology company and a movement, and we hope that everybody will join us on our mission to becoming earth positive.
