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Kathleen Talbot

Kathleen Talbot

Chief Sustainability Officer
Reformation
06 November 2023

Can you provide an introduction to Reformation, including its history, purpose, and your vision for the brand?

Reformation was established in 2009 with the belief that fashion could be a force for positive change. Over a decade ago, we recognized the urgent need to address climate change within the fashion industry—a perspective that has since gained traction globally. Initially based in Los Angeles and specializing in one-of-a-kind vintage items, we have expanded our vision to become a global brand committed to sustainable fashion. We firmly believe that no one should have to compromise ethics for style, and our brand is dedicated to driving a positive, optimistic future by disrupting patterns of overconsumption and the use of fossil fuels.

We are steadfast in our commitment to become climate positive by 2025, adhering to verified science-based targets aligned with the 1.5-degree pathway and striving to remove more emissions than we produce. Alongside this, we have introduced our “circular by 2030” commitment, challenging the notion that new clothes require the use of virgin and finite resources. For us, sustainability is not just a collection or a product; it is embedded in every aspect of our operations.

Tell us more about Reformation's value proposition, particularly focusing on the use of sustainable materials and your efforts towards being a green brand.

Our commitment to sustainability is rooted in our choice of materials, a critical component as up to two-thirds of our environmental impact stems from this aspect. We prioritize the use of recycled, renewable, and regenerative materials, aiming for  100% of our products to align with these sourcing principles. Less than 2% of our sourcing is synthetic, with a significant emphasis on bio-based materials like regenerative and organic cotton, man-made cellulosic fibers, and natural fibers including flax, linen, and recycled wool.

While recycling is fundamental to our material strategy, we recognize the challenges presented by inadequate collection infrastructure in the U.S. and globally. To bridge this gap, we have engaged in intensive efforts to develop solutions and advocate for improvements in recycling systems. Every piece of clothing we create is designed with the potential for recyclability, demonstrating our dedication to driving innovation and sustainability in fashion.

In the context of the industry, what changes need to occur to facilitate a truly green transformation, and how is Reformation contributing to this shift?

The disconnect between the overwhelming production of clothing items and the inadequate recycling infrastructure is a significant barrier to a green transformation in the fashion industry. Annually, over 100 billion clothing items are produced, yet a substantial amount of material waste is not recycled, signifying a missed opportunity to convert waste into valuable resources. To combat this, Reformation is actively engaged in unglamorous yet essential efforts to enhance collection infrastructure and advance regulations that promote recycling and sustainability.

We are eager to accelerate this transformation and have already initiated programs like our RefRecycling initiative that support textile-to-textile recycling. Our take-back recycling initiatives and connection to a network of recyclers underscore our commitment to ensuring that our products, once they reach the end of their wearable life, are recycled and reintegrated into the fashion system. While we recognize that these efforts are just a starting point, they reflect our determination to lead by example, advocating for broader solutions and fostering a sense of urgency to address climate change and sustainability in the fashion industry.

How is Reformation addressing the challenges of collection and recycling in the U.S., and what role do policymakers play in this scenario?

Indeed, the current state of recycling infrastructure in the U.S. is a challenge, with only a handful of states offering effective systems. To tackle this issue, Reformation launched a recycling program in 2014, which we relaunched in 2022 to focus on textile-to-textile recycling.

We encourage and incentivize customers to return items at the end of their life cycle, ensuring they are recycled and remain within the fashion ecosystem. While this is not a universal solution, it is a critical step towards fostering corporate responsibility and closing the existing gaps in recycling.

Where is Reformation currently present as a company, and do you have any plans for expansion or projects for transforming global clothing?

Reformation is a U.S.-based brand with a significant global presence, having over 40 brick-and-mortar stores and a primarily online business that caters to an international clientele. With nearly 20% of our revenue coming from outside of the U.S., including five stores in London, our mission is to make sustainable fashion accessible to everyone. We are passionate about demonstrating that rigorous climate action and profitability can coexist, and we are determined to prove that the implementation of sustainable practices within the fashion industry is not just possible, but viable.

Growth and expansion are intrinsic to our goals. We are focused on going global and have recently expanded programs like RefRecycling to Canada. Our eyes are set on the EU, where we aim to increase customer engagement and build networks of innovators to support our sustainable programs. We believe that by sharing our playbook and achievements, we can inspire similar actions within the fashion industry, showcasing that sustainable practices are not just beneficial for the environment but are also associated with business success.

How do you balance the affordability and sustainability aspects of your products? 

The question of affordability is central to our mission to bring sustainable fashion to everyone. We are dedicated to ensuring our products are accessible and inclusive. In our journey, we have noted that as solutions scale, the margin implications for investments in sustainable practices are decreasing. The initial investments are substantial, but as these practices become established and mainstream, efficiencies, and economies of scale begin to emerge.

Our sourcing strategy is a blended model. We have found ways to offset investments with discounts and efficiencies in other areas. However, operationalizing net-zero or climate-positive commitments will involve substantial investments, especially in carbon offset or removal projects. Collaborations with groups like the Apparel Impact Institute will be crucial to facilitate financing and accelerate transitions essential for the entire industry, not just individual brands.

What are the current and anticipated future challenges in making the fashion industry more sustainable?

The awareness and motivation to embrace sustainable practices are growing within the industry, but the challenge lies in the availability and scalability of solutions. There is a financial bottleneck, with questions about who should bear the initial investment costs and risks. Our approach involves actively de-risking these transitions for our suppliers and connecting them with the right mechanisms to scale, utilizing our leverage to facilitate the transition.

Brands, including Reformation, are the storytellers and have the platform to reach millions, conveying the urgency of climate action and presenting viable solutions. Openness and collaboration are essential to accelerate change, making information accessible to individuals, companies, suppliers, and politicians to foster an environment of informed decision-making and action towards sustainability.

What would be your final message to our audience?

Our commitment lies in the belief that a better future is possible for both our global community and the fashion industry. We have laid out plans for a future where beautiful clothing is produced in a manner that is climate-positive and circular, moving from commitment to tangible action. We encourage a shift from the prevalent pessimism to an optimistic, action-oriented approach, focusing on initiating the necessary steps towards the future we all want.

Our message is simple yet powerful - we know what needs to be done, and the time to act is now. The solutions are within reach, and by working collectively, we can transform the fashion industry from a contributor to environmental problems to a driving force for positive, sustainable change. Our goal is to make this vision attainable and standard, not just aspirational, fostering a world where responsible consumption and manufacturing are the norm.